PART 18: THE BOW AND THE HEM
If you're not making the bow, you can skip down to the end of the post where I talk about hemming, or you can just read along and look at the pretty photos - your choice! Okay, let's get started!
Center your interfacing on the bow fabric, glue facing the wrong side of the fabric. Press the interfacing in place with a hot iron. The interfacing piece is smaller so that it doesn't bulk up the seam allowance.
Fold the bow center, matching notches, and pin. Fold the bow piece, matching notches and pin. Mark the pivot corners on the bow piece before going to your sewing machine. They will be very close to where the interfacing is, but since we just eyeballed the centering of that piece, it might not be exact and that is okay.
Sew the bow center along the notched edge.
Sew one short end of the bow and pivot.
Continue sewing until you reach the first notch. Be sure to back stitch at this point since it will get a lot of pressure placed on it when we turn the bow right side out. Start sewing at the next notch and pivot at the end and close up the other short end.
Trim the bow center seam allowance down to 1/4".
Trim the bow seam allowance down to 1/4" as well, and trim off the tip of the corner at the pivot points.
DO NOT TRIM BETWEEN THE NOTCHES!!! Leave this part untrimmed so you can tuck it into the seam allowance. The reason I do this is because I find that I can get a much better line on the edge that has the hole if I leave the seam allowance in place. If I trim it, pressing it perfectly is nearly impossible.
Turn the bow right side out through the hole between the notches.
Turn the bow center right side out. Press the bow center flat, placing the seam at the center back.
Using a point turner, poke out the corners at the end of the bow. Be gentle!
Fold in the seam allowance on the hole of the bow and press the entire bow crisp.
Top stitch the bow center at the sides. I am using a 1/8" seam allowance, but you can use 1/4" as well.
Top stitch the bow, pivoting at each corner.
Press both pieces again after sewing.
Fold the bow in half and pin. Using the stitch line on the pattern piece, mark your line on the bow. Be sure to use the center fold line as your guide and not the end of the pattern piece since it no longer is that long since we've sewn it with the seam allowance! Also, be sure to use a water or air soluble marking tool. Sew along this line, making sure to back stitch.
Open the bow and place the stitch line directly under the center of the bow loop.
Press at the center, flattening the back where you just stitched. I do not press the bow loops on either side of the center because I like them slightly open, but if you'd like yours flat, that is a personal choice.
Fold the bow center up 1/2" on one end and press.
Wrap the unfolded end over the bow at the center stitch line.
Wrap the folded end over the center stitch line and cinch the bow ever so slightly. Pin in place.
This is the front, after pinning and cinching. If you'd prefer the bow be flat with no cinching, that's fine too! I like mine slightly cinched at the center.
Using a needle and thread, hand sew the bow center in place.
Yeah! A finished bow!!!
Pin the bow in place at the center front of the dress, just above the waist seam. Pin through the bodice and the lining.
Where you tack it down is entirely up to you, but personally, I like to tack mine at the center of the bow, and at the top and bottom of each bow loop. I do not sew through the face of the loop, but rather through the layers so the face of the loop is free from stitching and is slightly raised from the body. Secure it through all the layers with needle and thread.
For the hem, I have allowed a 2" hem because I like a big fat hem! First, fold up 1/2"and press.
Fold up another 1 1/2" and press. Leave it pinned it in place for hand sewing.
I like do to a simple hand sewn hem stitch, where you grab a tiny bit of the skirt fabric, then go through the back of the fold, and repeat. Be sure to only get a tiny bit of the skirt and to keep the stitches the same length so the dots are evenly spaced on the right side.
And that's it!!! The End!!! Wow, thank you all for following along with me on this Emery Dress Sew-Along! As I said earlier, look for more follow up posts to come which will include instructions on how to make sure I see your finished dresses! You know you a) want to show me, and b) want to have your pretty dress showcased on my blog! Right? That's right!
Happy weekend to you all and we'll meet up here next week to wrap things up!
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